Photoprotection against skin aging: Formulation Strategies and in-vitro methods (IT)

Time: 14:00 - 14:25

Date: 21 November 2019

Sunscreens are the most commonly used products to protect the skin from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation. An ideal sunscreen should be characterized by high substantivity and its action should therefore be limited to the skin surface or to the upper part of the stratum corneum; they must not penetrate the viable epidermis, the dermis and systemic circulation, nor the hair follicle. The research for methods able to assess the skin penetration of sunscreens is today even more important than in the past, due to the widespread use of nanomaterials and new discoveries in the cosmetic formulations technology. The degree of penetration strongly depends on the physico-chemical properties of the active compound, on the nature of the vehicle in which the sunscreen is formulated and on numerous factors related to the skin. In fact, both the molecular weight and the lipophilicity of the molecule play an important role in skin penetration, just as it has been shown that skin permeation and retention from topically applied substances may differ significantly depending on the formulations used. In recent years, several in vitro studies have focused attention on the various methodological approaches used to effectively evaluate the permeation and distribution of sunscreens in the skin, in light of the entry into force of the EU / 1223/2009 Cosmetic Regulation, the ban of animal testing for cosmetic purposes and the advent of nanotechnologies

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