TechFocus 2019

The TechFocus presentations are 20-minute sessions where companies have the opportunity to share their latest ingredients,formulations and services.

The TechFocus programme will take place in rooms Orange 2 & Orange 3

20 November 2019

Orange 2

09:50 - 10:10

Univar – Hair integrity: A holistic approach to health and styling in the new urban context

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Consumers are increasingly concerned about the consequences of exposition to environmental factors such as UV or urban pollution, seeking solutions for maintaining hair beauty.

This presentation highlights the benefits of specific silicone technologies in reducing the impact of environmental pollution on hair, in addition to their other well-established hair care performances. Four formulations to help maintain a healthy hair look and feel despite daily exposure are presented.

Additionally, MaizeCare™ Style, a new bio-based 100% natural origin hair fixative, will be introduced with performance responding to styling needs of consumers from soft to stiff styling, in a series of innovative textures.

10:10 - 10:30

Brenntag – Correlation between sensory analysis on hair and Measurement of Foam parameters by Instrumental : Dynamic Foam Analyzer – DFA 100

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Hair cleansers and most specifically liquid shampoos have to fulfill important technical challenges to fit with consumers expectations, but they also have to further meet up the unexpressed ones. Also the main criteria to be considered and evaluated are the visual appearance, the foam’s texture and the after-rinse’s touch of hair. The most relevant method to evaluate shampoo sensory performance is the sensory evaluation => to score the different sensory attributes => needs the help of a panel of trained judges. However this method is time consuming and not relevant for product development/needs data to assure safety. Therefore, instrumental investigation is preferred to save time on formulation screening. The aim of the present study is to investigate the sensory profile of 3 formulated shampoos with only one ingredient changing. The objective was to study the substitution of 2 commons silicone on the sensory performance of the foam.

Speaker

10:30 - 10:50

Eurosyn – PolyAquol™-LW and PolyAquol™-VO4: low energy process for natural emulsions

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Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology. This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™. Innovacos has recently extended its poly-glycerol innovative “formulience” platform with the introduction of two new emulsifiers.
The selection of highly purified polyglyceryl and fatty acid building blocks coupled to a molecular engineering know-how led to the creation of PolyAquol™-LW. The key feature of this ingredient resides in its ability to form O/W emulsion in a cold-process environment while achieving very low levels of viscosity. PolyAquol™-LW is perfectly suited for “one-pot” emulsions and also low-energy process avoiding the use of heat or homogenization. Moreover, its Cosmos status and palm-free origin make it an ideal candidate for green formulations. Thanks to its molecular design, PolyAquol™-LW outperforms other emulsifiers with an apparent similar chemical composition.
PolyAquol™-VO4 is a new, patented technology in the field of emulsions. Unlike standard emulsifiers, it literally creates a Water-and-Oil Fusion; W+O. Our W+O technology developed based on synergistic interactions between polyglyceryl derivatives of oleic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid. In addition to be completely natural as per its Cosmos certification and palm-free origin, it performs even in the presence of 100% vegetable oil. PolyAquol™-VO4 is an easily pourable liquid that allows the formation of cold-process emulsions. Its particularity to accept up to 80% of internal water phase brings full control to the viscosity of the final emulsion. It can create stable emulsions when used in a concentration as low as 2% and surpasses competition in robustness and sensoriality.

Speaker

10:50 - 11:10

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – Phospholipids to improve natural color cosmetics: when nature, texture and performance demands meet

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The choice of an ingredient in a cosmetic product is determined by a number of elements, including its technical, sensory and efficacy properties. In make-up, the behavior of an ingredient with pigments is even more important.

Phospholipids offer natural and efficient solutions with their powerful emulsifying properties together with efficient biological properties and their characteristic phospholipids touch’.

In make- up, phospholipids can be used to disperse pigments effectively and naturally. Their moisturizing and restructuring effects make them useful to create active make-up textures, with an elegant and comfortable skin feel.

Come and discover how phospholipids can improve your make-up formulation!

Speaker

11:10 - 11:30

Complife – Hair, scalp and the trichological evaluation in the cosmetic field | Hair, scalp and the trichological evaluation in the cosmetic field (EN)

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Hair care testing is a specialized approach involving study design, techniques and knowledge borrowed from trichology. Starting from ex vivo until to reach the in vivo testing approach, the presentation will introduce the techniques and the study protocols currently used in the cosmetic field. Ex vivo testing on human origin hair locks is a powerful tool to screen several formulations with a time- and cost-effective approach. Hair elasticity, colour, and structure can be successfully assessed using ex vivo testing. Human studies are, instead, the method of choice when the product cosmetic acceptability and the interaction with “living conditions” need to be taken into consideration.

Speaker

11:30 - 11:50

Merck – Banish the Microplastics

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Today, the awareness rises about the negative effects of plastics. Microplastic beads are commonly used in cosmetic application for peeling effects but also for formulation enhancing properties, such as skin feel or texture improvement. The Merck RonaFlair® Functional Filler portfolio offers environmentally friendly alternatives that are mainly used as skin and texture enhancers. With a smart combination of RonaFlair® Functional Fillers a higher soft-focus effect and wrinkle reduction than Nylon-12 and PMMA can be achieved whilst maintaining the tactile properties and smooth skin feel.  

11:50 - 12:10

Sinerga – Eco sustainability in the hair care world through the use of raw materials innovative and natural-oriented

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12:10 - 12:30

Kalichem – Post Biotic Research for Microbeauty

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Skin microbiota helps to protect the skin from allergens, photoaging, free radicals and pollution. The "good" bacteria “speak” to each other and to skin cells through “Postbiotics”, healthy molecules too complex to be artificially reproduced. Kalichem promotes a world discovery development, a new generation of bio-tech ingredients, thanks to an innovative and patented "clean" biofermentation process, that maximizes the production of Postbiotics. Kalichem and Postbiotica present KALIBIOME the first Postbiotic platform of ingredients that protect sensitive skin by increasing its defenses, modulate skin response and simultaneously act as a powerful, groundbreaking, anti-aging factor.

14:00 - 14:20

LCM – Bicoalgae XT

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Bicoalgae® XT is a natural skin superfood with extraordinary anti-ageing properties which incorporate the nutrients of microalgae extract produced by an eco-bioprocess that boosts the production of natural Astaxanthin in an advanced skin delivery technology that stabilise and transporte them to deep epidermal layers, so they can be used by the skin.
Bicoalgae® XT proved to be effective in repairing of wrinkles, increase of firmness, brightness and skin barrier function. Its use also provides intense detox by accelerating cell renewal and increasing skin antioxidant capacity. Additionally, protects the skin from blue light from electronic devices and prevents the penetration of pollution particles.
Bicoalgae® XT proves that when cosmetic development is driven by science, the combination of effective and natural is possible.

14:20 - 14:40

Safic Alcan – Surfing on the J-Cosmetofood trend with Wamino-Bonbon, a synergetic mixture of sake lees and refined sugars for enhanced skin conditions

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The J-Cosmetofood (J for Japan) is one of the rising trends in Europe. This is why Ichimaru Pharcos recently launched Wamino-Bonbon, a unique mixture of premium brand sake lees and molasses from highly refined sugar. Sake lees are white solid left-overs from the traditional method used to prepare sake. Wasanbon sugars are prepared using ancient extraction methods from sugarcanes grown in some specific areas in Japan. Wamino-Bonbon is very much in line the sustainable development trends in the sense that we recycle left-overs from drink and food preparation processes.

The uniqueness of this synergetic mixture of two traditional materials lies in its composition which includes vitamins (such as the “beauty” vitamin B2), amino acids (glutamic acid, aspartic acid, leucine and arginine) and sugars.

In an in-vivo test, a lotion containing 1% Wamino-Bonbon has displayed a significant improvement in skin moisturizing and skin texture density after just one week.

Speaker

14:40 - 15:00

Eico Novachem – Flor’Innov: The Floral Activates for the Regulation of the Circadian Rhythm and the preservation of the Microbiota

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Flor’Innov is an innovative natural active ingredients’ range in liquid form, Cosmos approved, born from the extraction of Provence flowers.

Thanks to proved and tested efficacy, these active ingredients protect the skin from attack by external contaminants, providing a proper hydration and a proper balance of the skin’s microbiota. The increase of protection against UVA and UVB rays, that is reached by acting on different levels, allows the restore and the reactivation of the proper cells’ biologic cycle. The effects of the slowing down of the skin’s ageing process, can be seen in short terms, by the reduction of unsightly blemishes, like es wrinkles and dark circles

15:00 - 15:20

Biochim – Epidermal Jetlag: What it is and how to fight it

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15:20 - 15:40

Res Pharma – Sustainable Beauty in Cosmetic Formulas

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Speaker

15:40 - 16:00

Solvay – Enjoy the transforming textures and customizable formulation

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Transforming textures and customizable formulations are gaining momentum in the personal care industry. To answer the market needs, Solvay offered 2 innovative products:

- Miracare ® OGE - a novel emulsifying system enabling a multifunctionality and innovative textures formulation with a nice sensory profile. It will help you to formulate transparent emulsion with high internal phase (emulsify up to 80% of oil) and help you to develop innovative textures or new formats.

- Rheozan ® SH – a natural polymer offering excellent skin feel (smooth/non-tacky, velvety after-feel) with excellent emulsifying properties enabling the formulation of sensorially-pleasing, natural skin care products meeting consumer demand

Speaker

16:00 - 16:20

INT.E.G.RA – New trends in the collection and management of information on the cosmetic product in R&D, Production and Regulatory

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21 November 2019

Orange 3

09:50 - 10:10

The world of fragances

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10:10 - 10:30

Bregaglio – Field Colors Siddha Medical: iconic product of a new Wunderkammer

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In the neo Wunderkammer of Bregaglio the Campo Siddha Medico Colors products represent the real object of wonders: natural colorants derived from plants, leaves, flowers and roots and linked to Indian medicine. Bregaglio will accompany you in the search for new and unexpected applications of these raw materials that combine tradition with innovation.

10:30 - 10:50

Minasolve & Active Up – Green Solutions to Protect your Formulations

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Cosmetic and beauty care industries where bio-chemistry is strongly growing and provides a challenge to develop new formulations in line with consumer demands.
Minasolve, part of the Minafin Group, is a producer of premium and innovative bio-ingredients for cosmetic applications based on green and sustainable production processes to cope with market demands and customer focus.
Thanks to 10 years of experience in the cosmetics industry, we develop multipurpose active ingredients and unique high quality products for preservation systems.

Recently, we also developed safe and efficient cost-champion solutions to protect your formulations.

10:50 - 11:10

Cellular communication & Sensitive-Reactive skin

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Located at the interface between the external environment and our body, the skin, organized in different layers of adjacent cells, constitutes a first barrier against daily aggressions. Perfectly structured via a powerful communication network (microbiota, epidermis, dermis, nervous, vascular and immune systems), it is at the heart of complex regulatory mechanisms that allow it to preserve its integrity. The Solabia Research provides answers & solutions for a more radiant, beautiful and healthier skin.

Speaker

11:10 - 11:30

Radiant skin all day long

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Speaker

11:30 - 11:50

LipoTrue – A sustainable Mediterranean solution for a 360º non-gender eye-care beauty

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“Meiview™ is a bacterial ferment extract obtained from an extremophile microorganism that lives in a halophytic plant in Mallorca (Spain) obtained through a sustainable biotechnological fermentation process following the Green Chemistry twelve principles. It is the first active in the cosmetic market with a global action in the eye contour area covering dark circles, eyebags, wrinkles and also provides a lifting effect of the eyelids. Moreover, its efficacy has been proved in both men and women.

Meiview™ is a natural ingredient, COSMOS approved, with 99.5% of natural content according to ISO 16128. It’s non-ecotoxic and readily biodegradable.”

Speaker

11:50 - 12:10

Mérieux NutriSciences – New parameters for the safety and sustainability of cosmetic packaging

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We live at a time where sustainability and safety are essential for both consumers and regulatory authorities. Cosmetic companies are well aware of this topic and they are studying sustainable and innovative solutions for both product packaging and formulation. At the same time, we must not forget that the high level of product safety must always be guaranteed. Where do we can start? The development of a safe and sustainable packaging is the first step and, thanks to the support of scientific tests, it is possible to demonstrate product conformity and guarantee that information and claims present on the label are truthfulness and comprehensibility for the consumer.

Speaker

12:10 - 12:30

Microbiome testing: An integrated analytical approach

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Speaker

12:30 - 12:50

COPTIS LAB: a software solution for optimizing formulation development and regulatory compliance

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Speaker

14:00 - 14:20

BEAUTYQUAT RC: a new generation of natural catonic emulsifier

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14:20 - 14:40

Lehvos & Stéarinerie Dubois – Stéarinerie Dubois’s esters

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The esters of Stearinerie Dubois have been able to respond to the evolution of Make Up by proposing solutions that have responded to the dynamic trends. The conference will be an exploratory sensory journey and is the result of research conducted with university teams and specialists in formulation and sensory evaluation. The aim of the research was to combine each of the proposed foreigners with formulary solutions in the core of the formula and the consequent specific marketing claims. The presentation will be an exploratory sensory journey and is the result of research conducted with various university teams and specialists in sensory evaluation.

Speaker

15:20 - 15:40

Clariant – Lnc886: A new key to unlock the pathway of anti-aging

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Lnc886. A long non-coding RNA whose link with skin aging was recently demonstrated for the first time. By targeting lnc886, Epseama™, a natural active ingredient derived from the brown seaweed Laminaria japonica, is possible to counter the three main signs of aging: photoaging, chronoaging and inflammaging. It offers a global skin rejuvenation solution for new anti-aging perspectives.

Speaker

 

 


21 November 2019

Orange 2

09:50 - 10:10

Sentient – Mineral SPF Booster & Blue Light Shield

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Speaker

10:10 - 10:30

Pharma Cosm Poli – Golden C: Ascorbic acid in a new high performance stabilized form

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Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can be used locally to prevent and treat changes associated with photoaging. Since it is unstable and difficult to penetrate the dermis at optimal dosages, the research is directed towards stable compounds and new methods of administration in the dermis. Golden C is a stabilized form of ascorbic acid, an innovative synergistic complex based on submicrometric particles of gold, glutathione and ascorbic acid. From the tests carried out, exceptional performances were obtained, already at low dosages, which demonstrate a superior efficacy in terms of antioxidant and anti-radical action compared to free ascorbic acid or other derivatives.
Main features and cosmetic benefits:
• High stability and protection of ascorbic acid
• Better penetration and release of AA and glutathione in their active form
• Ability to stimulate collagen synthesis and regeneration of A.A. active

10:30 - 10:50

Phenbiox – New technologies for the cosmetic use of fermented plants

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For thousands of years, in many different cultures, fermentations have been key tools to process foodstuff increasing its nutritional values and shelf life. Microorganisms can also be very interesting tools to transform the least interesting fractions of plant phytocomplexes into active ingredients useful to promote skin and hair aspect and conditions. Phenbiox’s exclusive HyperFermentation technology allows to drastically increase the effectiveness of plant phytocomplexes, allowing the development of new antioxidant systems (vitamins and glutathione), proteins and amino acids.

Speaker

10:50 - 11:10

BTC Europe – New Challenges in Sun Care and possible approaches to overcome them

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Speaker

11:10 - 11:30

Covestro – Can a cosmetic product be good for me and the planet? Clean beauty with polyurethane film formers

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Today more than ever, consumers are aware of the supply and environmental destiny of the products they use. This demand from consumers, as well as regulatory pressure, has led the cosmetics industry to look for new material solutions that increase the natural content of the formulas and reduce their environmental impact. Baycusan® water-based Baycusan® polyurethane film formers have the unique ability to biodegrade when released into the environment, offering a solution for the formulation of natural and biodegradable cosmetic products without compromising performance. With the uniform, flexible and breathable protective film by Baycusan® it is possible to create detachable masks and anti-pollution face creams. Providing excellent water resistance, Baycusan® allows the formulation of long-lasting ecological sun care and make-up products. Polyurethane film formers also make biodegradable hair styling products with flexible hold, style retention and moisture protection possible. Find out how Baycusan® technology can contribute to eco-conscious and performing beauty products!

Speaker

11:30 - 11:50

A perfect sensorial perception through a scientific foam anaylsis

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A whole range of surfactants from Z&S portfolio has been analyzed to help the cosmetic formulator to meet the market demands in Rinse-Off Products. This study wants to be a key point for creating perfect-fit products for the customer requirements. .

Starting from a scientific deep dive, we “freezed” the entire life cycle of the bubbles, from the inception to their collapse.

Speaker

11:50 - 12:10

Skin Microbiomics and Metabolomics: The foundation of natural ingredients

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The current general trend in the cosmetics sector is characterized by the development of products based on biotechnological active ingredients with high added value and a strong rational of use based on new scientific knowledge.

Recently, increased consumer interest in anti-aging products has drawn attention to the role of natural biological metabolites. Evaluating the difference in the microbial population (microbiome) and their metabolites (metabolome) in the skin of babies and adults, essential metabolites that can restore the full functionality of the skin,

have been identified, promoting an effective pro-aging activity.

Speaker

12:10 - 12:30

Benefits of Formulating Lipsticks with Kobo Pigmentary Dispersions

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Kobo Products will showcase its 30 years experience in modifying pigments to get the best possible performance out of them, in the context of lipstick formulations. Today an important buzz word for lipsticks is ‘highly pigmented’. Consumers demand to get a true colour application with one swipe of a stick that glides on effortlessly, feels comfortable and gives a long lasting colour deposition on the lips. This presentation will discuss why the Kobo dispersions present not just an opportunity to save time and money in production and quality control, but also a way to create highly pigmented formulas with improved sensory aspects.

Speaker

12:30 - 12:50

Trendy formulating for the Conscious Consumer

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Consumers are increasingly paying attention to brands' environmentally-friendly practices and supporting those that have a positive impact on the earth. Rather than relying on brands for their wellbeing, consumers now demand ethical value and naturally healthy ingredient alternatives.
Provital meet the needs of the conscious consumer offering ethical propositions:

Kerascalp™: The today´s hair care well-being, for tomorrow´s hair care well-aging.
Hydrafence™: The science and awareness behind hydration.
Eye'fective™: The essence of natural white flowers for multifunctional eye care.

Speaker

14:20 - 14:40

Innospec – Formulating Sustainable Formats

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Our imagination is the only limit for creating luxurious, sustainable personal care products for hair, face and body.

By combining high quality performance ingredients, we focus on delivering contemporary, sustainable formats and sensory experiences to everyday routines.

Explore the latest trends in sustainable product launches and how to put your own twist on solid products with mild, textured properties during this seminar.

 

 

Speaker

14:40 - 15:00

Microbiome: Effectiveness test for the evaluation of skin imperfections

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Speaker

15:00 - 15:30

Sigmund & Qenax – The Perfect Match! Pure Beauty with Bio-Sourced Glitter & Natural Actives

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Bio-Sourced Brilliant Effects combined with Natural Active Substances.

Sigmund Lindner has developed a biodegradable glitter which meets the regulations of ISO 14851. This material is VEGAN and Plastic-Polymer, Heavy metal, GMO and Allergen free.

This makes it interesting also for natural cosmetic products. Give your product your own personal signature, enable your customers to be brilliant with the perfect combination of active and decorative ingredients. To have a decorative cosmetic product does not exclude an active performance of a product.

Qenax markets highly effective natural plant based active ingredients under the brand of Cayoma®.

Cosmos certified active ingredients combined with Bio-Sourced Brilliant Effects –

The perfect Match!

Speakers

15:20 - 15:40

Inquiaroma – A 360°-approach to skin health and well-being

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More than 70% of consumers say that they use cosmetic products to improve their quality of life. 80% use cosmetics to improve self-esteem. 68% think that their use of cosmetics is important of how they are perceived by others. These features go hand in hand with skin health. It is clear what consumers expect from the cosmetic industry. Consumers want us to supply them with products which satisfy their primary needs. Achieving and keeping skin health and well-being is a complicated task and goes far beyond 'soothing and calming' the skin. It demands a holistic approach taking into account multiple essential aspects of skin, which does not only include bringing the skin back in balance, but, above all, ensures this balance to be stable and sustainable. This presentation will show what can be achieved with a 360°-approach with active ingredients, ensuring a satisfied consumer.

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