20 November 2019
Pre-Mature Skin Aging: Tools, methodologies and diagnosis covered in 1 day!
SICC Conference – Opening (IT)
- Elio Mignini Direttore Generale SICC
The Skin Microbiota and its variations during the aging process
The microbiota is the relationship between human body and the microbial community living in a symbiontic way and it plays different roles, for example it acts a barrier against pathogenic invasions. The condition of equilibrium between the host and the bacterial communities is defined as eubiosis. On the other hand, the alteration of this equilibrium, related to individual, environmental and behavioral factors, is called dysbiosis and it may cause disorders and/or pathological conditions. There are different type of microbiota, the skin microbiota is the most important in the cosmetic field.
The microbiota is highly dynamic and changes under the influence of different factors: environmental factors (pollution, UV rays), physiological factors (pH, temperature and hormonal conditions), ethnicity, sex, life style and age. Different studies demostrated that skin microbiota changes in relation to age: new born microbiota is strictly related to delivery mode and mother microbiota, hormonal levels influence the composition of skin microbiota during puberty and it stabilizes during adult life. Skin microbiota is conditioned during old age due to physiological and immune changes.
Corneotherapy as a target for skin aging cosmetics
- Mrs Stefania Motta SICC President
A Global and Powerful Approach to circumvent harmful effects of the blue light and IR-A radiations to the skin
V.Bicard-Benhamou, L. Heider, M. Lefort, J. zur Lage, S. Hornung, H. Hanau, A. Kielbassa, J. von Hagen
It remains in minds that photoprotection is mainly a matter of UV protection. However, all solar radiations lead to the formation of radical oxygen species (ROS) and excess free radicals in skin, and herewith contribute to premature skin aging and wrinkling. There are already powerful solutions to address light protection beyond UV, notably in the HEV and IR-A range, considering a first defense line strategy – i.e. avoiding any radiations to enter the skin, and this by using appropriate combi-nations of titanium dioxide UV filters and mica-based functional fillers (1), (2).
In this work we present a complementary approach targeting second defense line to address radical damages that nevertheless may occur in the skin following an over-exposure to HEV and/or IR radiations. Test candidates from different origin were selected to maximize performance: synthetic and biotechnological molecules, natural extracts. Substantiating the link between first defense and impact on relevant biochemical markers after a stress to HEV/IR-A was also in focus. Therefore, a system containing a titanium dioxide UV filter was also tested. The protective effect of the different ingredients against HEV (400-520 nm) and IR-A (760-1200 nm) radiations was investigated on living human skin explants by assessing following parameters: expression of Tropoelastin and MMP-1 for explants irradiated with IR; expression of MMP-1, 8-OhdG (reflecting the degree of oxidative damage to DNA), oxidized protein level, and Opsin-3 (working as a sensor for blue light in melanocytes and activating melanogenesis) for explants irradiated with HEV.
First results show very promising protective effects on irradiated explants treated with the different products vs. irradiated non-treated explants. For example, a natural extract with known cascading antioxidant properties protected Tropoelastin after IR-A irradiation and reduced Opsin-3 expression after HEV irradiation. A multi-talented synthetic antioxidant had a positive impact on all tested markers. Finally, an emulsion containing a broad-spectrum TiO2 UV filter could protect from oxidative damages in skin, thus validating the effectiveness of a first defense line strategy at the biological level.
Our global screening approach enabled us to identify how various active ingredients with different structure and origin can circumvent harmful effects of blue light and IR-A radiations. This paves the way for innovative solutions to fulfill justified increasing needs and wishes from consumer side to protect the skin more effectively against HEV and IR light, in addition to classical UVA/B protection.
(1) Rozman V. et al., SOFW Journal 2017, 143 (9)
(2) Lefort M. et al., IFSCC Magazine 2019, 22 (1)
- Mrs Marina Lefort Technical Marketing Manager - Merck KGaA, Germany
Ceramides and their evolution in skin aging. Benefits from their supplementation in cosmetic treatments (IT)
Ceramides, an heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids, are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum.
In physiological conditions, ceramides form ordered structures and are responsible for the water permeability barrier function of the skin. This is not only due to their chemical structures, but also to their physical state and physicochemical properties at the body temperatures.
A decrease in total ceramide content, observed in several skin disorders, is associated in a diminished barrier function. A decrease in ceramide content is also observed in skin ageing, with the consequence in change of skin hydration.
Ceramide supplementation could improve the skin conditions of disordered and aged skin. Replenishing the depleted epidermal ceramides with exogenous ones such as phyto-derived ceramides has been shown to have beneficial effects in improving the skin barrier and hydration. This communication intends to report several evidences of the benefits of oral and skin ceramides supplementations on the damaged and aged skin.
- Mrs Piera di Martino Università degli studi di Camerino
Cosmetics formulation for skin resilience
In psychology, resilience is the ability to cope with stressful or traumatic events and to positively reorganize one's life in the face of difficulties. For a material, resilience is the property of resisting an impact, absorbing energy in an elastic manner. Even for the skin we can speak of resilience as the ability to protect oneself from external insults and to repair oneself. These attitudes weaken with the passage of time and even more so with menopause.
Cosmetics formulated to strengthen skin resilience offer a proactive approach to ageing that supports and enhances the beauty of mature skin.
- Mrs Reginetta Trenti SICC
In vitro testing for evaluating the anti-aging activity of cosmetic products
Skin aging is a biological process caused by a series of endogenous and exogenous factors that lead to the alteration of normal skin conditions. This is accentuated by the exposure to solar radiation (in particular UV rays), cigarette smoke and air pollution which, stimulating the production of ROS, cause cellular alterations. This has prompted cosmetics industries to develop products that limit damages by protecting the skin. It is therefore necessary to carry out tests that allow the evaluation of these claims for the purpose of placing the product on the market. Over the years, as animal testing for ingredients and finished cosmetic products prohibited (European regulation 1223/2009), different alternative methods have been developed for guarantee the safety and efficacy of the product itself. Among these, there are in vitro methods performed on cell cultures and reconstructed human tissues that allow the analysis of the sample based on its specific properties and applications by carrying out a preliminary evaluation of its effectiveness.
- Mrs Alice Buzzella University of Pavia
RETHINK AGING – Ancient needs match new solutions
Anti-Aging has always been hot topics for the consumer. We have seen for many years a teem of cosmetics that proposed models that referred to the Myth of Everlasting Youth. Over time the perception of aging has changed, life expectancy is getting longer and consumers discover how to be themselves, immersed in a real life and with the need to live it to the fullest. A new approach is emerging in development and communication that explains how cosmetics help support mature skin as it changes with the aging processes.
- Mrs Giovanna Sartor JoLAB - Milano, Sicc Accademy, consiliere SICC
The longevity challenge
SICC – Closing (IT)
- Elio Mignini Direttore Generale SICC
21 November 2019
Pre-Mature Skin Aging: Strategies and ingredients to slow down skin aging and evaluation methods to ascertain the achievable improvements (IT)
The anti-aging actions seen by the dermatologist (IT)
- Mr Marcello Monti Dermatologist and Professor. - University of Milan
WELL-AGEING A new approach to aging
- Mrs Monica Maria Broccoli Collistar
Does hair get old too? Anti-aging strategies in hair care (IT)
Like skin, hair undergoes physiological and aesthetic changes, mostly due to photoaging processes. The application of trichological formulations containing antioxidant and protective agents is an effective strategy to preserve hair health.
- Mrs Elena Ugazio Università degli studi di Torino
MgO: evaluation of the influence on SPF (IT)
For over 15 years Cometech has been a distributor of important companies producing raw materials and a trusted partner of the main Italian cosmetic companies. In addition to maintaining and giving continuity to the trade in chemical products, Cometech intends primarily to develop a cooperative activity with its customers. Establish relationships of mutual exchange of information, carry out fruitful collaborations and thus become an important point of reference. Thanks to a small but well-equipped laboratory, Cometech is able to provide its customers with valid technical and formative support.
The aim of the thesis work was to study the potential of the use of Magnesium Oxide as an inorganic filter in formulations for solar products. In a first phase, the MgO sample was structurally and morphologically characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and electronic scanning microscopy (SEM). Subsequently, the filtering power of MgO was verified in synergy with other organic and inorganic filters, in order to obtain cosmetic formulations in the form of an anhydrous sticks that could satisfy the market requirements so generally high SPF, absence of "white effect" and good touch on the skin.
MgO: evaluation of the influence on the sun protection factor in anhydrous sticks.
- Mrs Marica Signorello Cometech
Photoprotection against skin aging: Formulation Strategies and in-vitro methods (IT)
Sunscreens are the most commonly used products to protect the skin from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation. An ideal sunscreen should be characterized by high substantivity and its action should therefore be limited to the skin surface or to the upper part of the stratum corneum; they must not penetrate the viable epidermis, the dermis and systemic circulation, nor the hair follicle. The research for methods able to assess the skin penetration of sunscreens is today even more important than in the past, due to the widespread use of nanomaterials and new discoveries in the cosmetic formulations technology. The degree of penetration strongly depends on the physico-chemical properties of the active compound, on the nature of the vehicle in which the sunscreen is formulated and on numerous factors related to the skin. In fact, both the molecular weight and the lipophilicity of the molecule play an important role in skin penetration, just as it has been shown that skin permeation and retention from topically applied substances may differ significantly depending on the formulations used. In recent years, several in vitro studies have focused attention on the various methodological approaches used to effectively evaluate the permeation and distribution of sunscreens in the skin, in light of the entry into force of the EU / 1223/2009 Cosmetic Regulation, the ban of animal testing for cosmetic purposes and the advent of nanotechnologies
- Mrs Silvia Tampucci University of Pisa
New trends: From Bio to Techno (IT)
Society is ageing and the concept of “old age“ has long been the subject of changes and revisions. Skin aging is a physiological process and we can’t reverse it, what we can do is formulate products to try to have a beautiful skin at all ages, through a constant search for active ingredients ranging from bio to technology.
- Mrs Elisabetta Casale Consulente Marketing
Epidermal Hydration “Debt”.
The wettability of the skin can be performed with a drop of water deposited on its surface using the contact angle method. The “water-drop” can be assumed as a physiological marker capable to evaluate the surface free energy of skin and its polar component and dispersion component. The wettabity of skin and its surface free energy can be evaluated directly and in a non-invasive way using a Tenskinmeter®. The Tenskinmeter® was used for the application of the Tenskinmeter Versus Skin (TVS) -skin test, an evaluation tool capable to determine the hydration of skin and its functionality. This work aims the development of a model capable to correlate the water contain of skin and its surface free energy. On these basis, the “skin hydration debit” was here developed in order to determine the hydration needs of the stratum corneum.
- Mr Antonio Bettero Senior Scholar of "Studium Patavinum" - University of Padova
2019 Cosmetic Itineraries Maria Ferrero: Our Friend – The Sun (IT)
SICC – Closing (IT)