The conference will take place in room TURQUOISE 2
Formulation and evaluation strategy for new mascara products
The great consumers’ expectations facing mascara performances and the complexity of formulations lead to continuous requests for developing innovative recipes and new brushes. It is necessary to adopt a combined strategy for the selection and proper assembly of the ingredients responsible of mascara structures, starting from the three main categories: waxes, film forming polymers and fillers. High melting point waxes must be used at high percentage in order to obtain a lengthening effect by the creation of a hard and thin film; a low melting point wax like Tea wax is more suitable for the volumizing effect, giving a creamy texture and a thicker film. Curling can be reached with more plastic waxes, which allow keeping the shape of the eyelashes. Film-forming polymers are essential to enhance the lengthening effect, the definition and water resistance. In general, they accelerate the drying time: this feature can be exploited when combining polymers with waxes according to criteria of mutual compensation, i.e. to fill the respective gaps and benefits. The semi-definitive formulas can be completed by fillers. These can exert different functions depending on their physical properties such as volume enhancing effect, but the identification of the correct balance among the filler type and amount, ease of application and formula thickening requires an experience-based and applicative approach.
- Dr Miriam Deola Cosmetic and R&D Specialist - Rigano Laboratories S.r.l.
Advanced formulations, efficacy evaluations and claim-support strategies
In the era of modern cosmetics, it is no secret that make-up products play huge social and psychological roles. The recent transformation from pure decoration products to highly functional formulas has made it necessary on the one hand, the evolution of the formulation strategy, and on the other hand the search for experimental efficacy protocols in support of new performance and functionality claims. We will describe the instrumental, clinical and sensorial methodological approach that can be used for formulation and efficacy studies to back up new product formulation claims.
- Dr Adriana Bonfigli ISPE S.r.l
Make-up in the patient with skin disease
Make-up in the dermatologic patient is an important procedure since subjects affected by skin diseases often do not tolerate normal cosmetic products and very often can develop adverse reactions such as irritative dermatitis or allergic contact dermatitis. Therefore the products used for this type of procedure must be carefully formulated to ensure maximum safety. Often make-up is used not only to heal the skin and improve its appearance but also to cover any skin diseases such as vitiligo, angiomas or other pigmentation disorders.
Packaging – product relationship in new mascara developments
Taking into account their specific, most common form of packing, i.e. small bottles equipped with an application brush and a wiper, mascaras require a precise coupling strategy between the product and its container. As far as the brush is concerned, its selection should consider the residual amount of product on the bristles, their softness and plasticity, spacings, abundance and length. The wiper, beside performing a vapor-tight closure, should releaseonto the bristles a constant product amount, without excess or failures, even a variable temperatures. The brush axis should allow the easy application and touch adequately the bottle bottom. The bottle should be easy to fill and to empty. All materials should be void of allergy or irritation risks. They shouild not release to the formula heavy metals or plasticizers. Indeed, the matching formula/packaging should derive from a cascade process: 1) an accurate rheological study of the formulation 2) followed by use trials to evidence the best performances. A more in depth, successive selection requires 3) a sistematic study concerning the shape and materials of the applicator and 4) application trials onto artificial lashes. Final selection requires practical application of the selected pack prototypes by an expert panel.
- Luigi Rigano Rigano Laboratories
Formulation and Production of lip products
- Enzo Biraghi Make-up Production Specialist
Hybrid Powders: New sensorial dimensions and applications of make-up.
- Giordano Valsecchi Powder Production Specialist
Botanicals in food supplements and in cosmetic products: scientific and regulatory aspects (IT)
The conference will take place in room GREEN 2
Botanicals in cosmetics and food supplements: scientific evidence and deficiencies (IT)
- Leonardo Celleno Dermatologist - Italian Association of Dermatology and Cosmetology
The role of health and herbal products from sustainable plant sources in cosmetics and food supplements (IT)
- Mr Stefano Manfredini University of Ferrara
Botanicals in the Cosmetic Industry (IT)
- Valerio Bombardelli Ufficio Legale - Indena S.p.A. / EFfCI
Botanicals and Packaging
"Botanicals" is a word that indicates the origin of a substance comes from the plant kingdom and can be applied in areas such as food science and cosmetics. Natural extracts however, may well interact with the primary packaging, causing a change in their characteristics, and sometimes even the safety of the product itself. The main interactions between the different components of the most commonly used extracts with the polymeric materials making up the main packaging shall be discussed.
Furthermore, the current state of awareness of the various environmental issues requires a behavior aimed at sustainability. From here different types of bioplastics are appearing on the market for the production of packaging including those based on cellulosic esters, starch derivatives, such as polyhydroxybutyrate, polylactic acid and polycaprolactone, which seem to associate high biodegradability with excellent barrier properties and relatively high thermal stability.
- Mrs Paola Perugini PhD University di Pavia
Using Botanicals in Cosmetic Products: Regulations, Claims and Advertising
In recent decades, the demand "green" or "natural" has become increasingly significant, leading the consumer to change their lifestyle and be more careful when buying goods and cosmetics alike, being more conscientious of formulations and chemical compounds. Preliminary and unavoidable assumption, is that the product connoted as natural is, first of all, compliant with Regulation (EC) n. 1223/2009, with particular regard to the composition, safety, efficacy and labeling requirements. The purpose of the presentation will be on the one hand, to analyse communication strategies through the correct application of the lawfulness criteria, without incurring the risk of misleading and providing the consumer with credible but above all truthful information, as well as assessing the obligations imposed by the REACH regulations and CLP for these substances used in cosmetic formulations.