20 November 2019
5 MACRO TRENDS TO KNOW IN 2020
- Michele Superchi Sales and Marketing Manager - Beautystreams
Italian Cosmetics: EVOLUTION OF ECONOMIC INDICATORS OF THE INDUSTRY AND THE MARKET
- Gian Andrea Positano Cosmetica Italia
Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing: challenges and opportunities of a “quiet” Italian flagship
Hidden in the upstream of the supply chain, contract manufacturing is a key sector in the Italian beauty & personal care industry. Over 1,500 million euros’ worth in 2018, once again third-party manufacturing recorded a positive trend (+ 4%), growing faster than the other traditional sales channels.
Setting themselves as total solution providers rather than mere suppliers, today’s contract manufacturers conceive and realize customized, ready-to-market products taking care of all aspects, from formulation to packaging. They deal with R&D, industrialization, production and regulatory compliance, catering to the brands’ needs as flexible partners. This is the vision behind the success of cosmetics outsourcing, a business pioneered in the early 70s by entrepreneur Dario Ferrari.
The analysis of the geographic revenue breakdown shows that Lombardy is the region scoring the highest turnover of cosmetics subcontractors, accounting to approximately 80.6% of the national figure. The area has thus been labeled “Cosmetic Valley”, a thriving cluster of manufacturing companies. On the contrary, the sales territory is anything but restricted; in fact, exports make up for over 80% of the overall turnover. Indeed, Italian subcontractors are appreciated all over the world for the quality of their service; one need only consider that Italian-made products represent more than half the global make-up market, a percentage that increases to 65% in the European market.
Despite the good performance, the dynamics of outsourcing in cosmetics are still unknown to the wider public and manufacturing companies definitely deserve further acknowledgement from stakeholders. How to enhance this "quiet" sector? Possible avenues for action include favorable economic and industrial policies, support to internationalization and stronger reputation management, so that Made-in-Italy cosmetics can finally make its voice heard.
- Renato Ancorotti Ancorotti Cosmetics
Microbiome and Cosmetics: international activities
Longtime knowledge of the beneficial effects of gut microbiota modulators and market experience with probiotics in food have inspired cosmetic industry, and an increasing number of cosmetics are being put on the market claiming influence on the skin microbiome to achieve cosmetic functions.
This growing market trend has raised the interest of cosmetic regulators all over the world, so that the ICCR (International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation) has considered “microbiome cosmetics” as an area for potential development of international guidelines on their safety, quality and regulation.
A new Joint Working Group has then been created at the ICCR level in 2018, with the mandate to explore new cosmetic products and technologies influencing the human skin microbiome. A high number of participants joined the working group, both from ICCR’s Member Countries and from Observers, to testify the increasing interest for this topic in many different jurisdictions.
As customary with the ICCR working process, both Regulators and Industry are represented in the working group: EFfCI, the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients, has established an internal Task Force dedicated to actively support the work of the ICCR working group by providing its contributions.
The deliverable of this effort will serve as groundwork for further work and final recommendation in this area.
- Dr Silvia Boracchi EFfCI
PHARMA VS COSMECEUTICAL SCIENCE IN THE PATIENT-CENTRIC RACE – A LOT TO DO AND A LOT TO LEARN
In the Health Care business patients are more and more intelligent about their consumption. The costumer’s attention and personal knowledge is changing the pharmaceutical industry approach to develop innovative solution. It is not only a matter of product’s efficacy anymore. Patients are expecting better, more personalized services and are also expecting better outcomes.
Does this sound familiar to the cosmeceutical science approach? The consumer centricity in the cosmetic innovation development is a well established reality and it is a must have with fundamental consequences in both research and marketing of the products.
Only as an example, we could mentioned that is the base of our science to address the individual responses of human skin to the environmental stress and how these responses are determined by differences in the anatomy and physiology, that are closely linked to the genetic characteristics such as pigmentation.
Historical key players in pharmaceutical companies and biotechnologies have a small window of time to rethink their approach and match today’s patient expectations.
In this talk we will discuss a realistic way to address the changes taking the advantages of knowing the specific needs and peculiar responses to specific treatments of each individuals.
- Serena Tongiani Chief Scientific Officer - ACRAF, (Aziende Chimiche Riunite Angelini Francesco)
Novel strategies in the treatment of skin disorders: SELECTIVE ACTION IN THE TREATMENT OF ACNE
Acne vulgaris is common during adolescence and results from increased sebum production, altered keratinization within the follicle, colonization by Propionibacterium acnes and inflammation. Use of dermocosmetics can provide significant benefits including the improvement of acne, alleviation of the side effects associated with other acne treatments, and increased adherence to pharmacological acne therapy. Novel SPF Face Cream has been developed as daily protection and adjuvant treatment for acne-prone skin and skin affected by acne.
The patented blend of Salix Alba and 1,2 Decanediol provide anti-inflammatory effects, reduction of both P. acnes levels and sebum production. A selective UV-filters association has been developed to deliver beneficial effects in acne-prone and acne-affected skin.
- Mr Marco Demuras R&D Coordinator - Meda Pharma SPA, a Mylan Company
CRAFTING INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS BY LEARNING FROM PLANTS’ EVOLUTIONARY STRATEGIES
It is not only in modern times that men are learning from plants and exploiting their virtues. Nature’s 4-billion-year-old R&D lab offers a bottomless treasure-trove of energy efficient, low-toxic and time-tested innovations. In this speech, we’ll follow one of the most representative examples of the great adaptation capabilities of a plant from the North that has been seen, ever since the ancient times, as an aid to various cultures including Greeks, Vikings, Chinese and more. The plant has adapted to harsh (cold) climates as -10°C, altitude of 4-5000m above sea level and has developed a unique set of secondary metabolites in its roots. According to the concept of Biomimetics (from “bios=life” and “mimesis=imitate”) - the art and science of observing the living world - strategies that stand the test of time and applying these deep principles to our human challenges will be shown by taking into considerations the prevailing schools of thoughts about the complex process of ageing, proposing for each a complement from this Northern plant.
- Mrs Giada Maramaldi BD Manager, Personal Care - Indena
THE ROLE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE SIGHT OF A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE
- Alessandro Fossati Eurosyn SpA / AssICC
21 November 2019
NETWORK, SECURITY AND FALSE MYTHS
The Regulation 1223/2009, designed as a consumer guarantee, establishes clear and precise rules to protect users regarding the use of ingredients, safety in the cosmetic manufacturing process and the ban on animal testing.
The Internet, globalization and the continuous evolution of consumer "needs" have shown flaws, revealing areas of shadow in which the application of the Cosmetics Regulation proves to be not very effective. As a consequence, the end user is exposed to multiple risks, first of all the one deriving from the numerous "traps" inherent in marketing.
The constant acceleration of the input multiplier deriving from the open window on the world, the 'mare magnum' of the network, requires targeted action. The aim is therefore to provide a starting point to reflect on the hidden dangers in the rapid evolution of the online cosmetic market, looking for quick and effective answers able to face the pitfalls that a constant development
- Mrs Alexia Ariano Lawayer - University of Bari; University of Siena
SOCIAL MEDIA AND COMMUNICATION FOR THE COSMETIC COMPANY
Over recent years the cosmetics sector has made extremely successful use of digital channels to reach out to consumers and display its innovative and dynamic nature. Today, the key to a brand’s success lies increasingly in having an in-depth understanding of the marketing channels and tools that digital technology provides, and managing all touch-points in an integrated approach. Developing synergistic multi-channel communication strategies makes it possible to deliver a comprehensive shopping experience, capable of engaging and retaining consumers.
- Mrs Cristina Martella Deborah Group S.p.a
LC-MS ANALYSIS OF SURFACTANTS FOR PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
The analysis of surfactants in detergent products, both for domestic and personal care use, are often entrusted to a-specific and highly interfered techniques.
The possibility of operating with instrumental methods developed ad-hoc not only allows to verify / quantify the presence of these chemicals in the product, but also to characterise their nature, purity and eventual conformity to specific raw materials, as well as, in in some cases, to certify its absence.
These techniques appear to be absolutely effective even in the present and certainly future need to work analytically on innovative raw materials, such as bio-based and bio-surfactant, also coming from non-chemical production processes.
- Mr Davide Mariani Innovhub
Sustainability and development: NEW FRONTIERS OF INNOVATION
Green Beauty certainly represents the most relevant trend within the cosmetic sector. Now more than 50% of toiletries and over 65% of those in the skin care sector are claimed to be environmentally sustainable. It is declined in different ways by companies operating in the sector according to the brands and their market positioning. We pass from a naturalness expressed in percentages of ingredients of natural or organic origin to certified products adhering to strict development protocols, passing through "minimalist" products, that is to say containing the minimum possible ingredients to contain the environmental impact and recover the essentiality formulation. New concepts such as eco-compatibility and actual biodegradability are coming up, especially in relation to some sensitive categories such as solar products. The attention on the primary and secondary packaging of cosmetic products with the use of plastics from renewable sources or the increasing use of recycled plastics also appears to be of great importance, sometimes through co-extrusion techniques that avoid contact with the product. The research also concerns the adoption of compostable plastics obtained from natural sources (eg biofermentation) that maximize the biodegradability themes of the same packaging.
- Marco Oliva R&D Director Bolton Manitoba e Manetti&Roberts - L.Manetti-H.Roberts &C per Azioni
Focus on in vitro alternative methods: new toxicological end-points for the safety evaluation
The use of in vitro tests for the characterization of the toxicological profiles of substances and mixtures is a well-established but still evolving instrument. The evolution of scientific knowledge, of the cellular and molecular biological processes, the progression of technologies, together with the need to satisfy the regulatory and safety requirements of the cosmetic sector, give the input to the development of new methods for increasingly complex and specific endpoints. The scientific and technical literature of the sector has been enriched in the last period by new methods for the toxicological analysis of substances and mixtures. The evaluation of skin sensitization potential has long been a topic with few scientifically valid technical solutions: today a range of validated and suitable methods for classification purposes is available. Current techniques for the evaluation of eye irritation allow the classification according to the regulations in force but also a finer investigation in the "mild irritant" category, harder to analyse.
For the purposes of toxicological research, protocols using in vitro assay systems for the analysis of the potential for reproductive and developmental toxicity are now available, together with the protocols for the screening of the activities of possible endocrine disruptors, adaptable to different possible exposure patterns.
Furthermore, the in vitro investigations also embrace the environmental sector and let researchers to characterize the products not only in terms of safety for humans but also with regard to aquatic and terrestrial environments, being potentially susceptible to significant changes over time.
The in vitro experimental methods are therefore confirmed as an allied research tool in the cosmetic sector, able to offer investigative strategies integrated with adequate, sensitive and precise results.
Vegetable actives for sustainable cosmetics: CROP®, the biotech solution to guarantee quality / safety, standardization and availability
In recent years respect and environmental sustainability are at the center of a new way of doing business, especially in the cosmetics sector.
The use of botanical ingredients is increasingly widespread in the cosmetic industry, where plant extracts carry that characteristic of "natural" that is increasingly gathering support among consumers. The presence of ingredients produced in safe and controlled conditions, combined with science and modern technology become fundamental prerequisites to obtain high quality, safe, and sustainable products.
Added to this growing demand for botanicals, the problems of availability and safety / quality of the products increase.
A definitive answer to the request of availability, security and standardization is the use of the technology of in vitro cultures. DemBiotech®, thanks to its deep know how, is owner of a proprietary Biotech Platform named CROP® that guarantees to overcome by process the limits of extraction by traditional cultivated plants, in term of quality, safety and standardization. The final product is free of contaminants such as pesticides, fertilizers, heavy metals and aflatoxins, since the culture is done in a safe and controlled environment (biofermentors).
- Mrs Elena Sgaravatti CEO - Demethra Biotech srl
Microplastics: Draft ECHA restriction proposal
It is a daily topic of discussion the fact that Microplastics can have a negative impact on the environment and on people health. In fact, when they are disposed of, they can accumulate in the environment (most of all in the seas) being ingested by organisms which can definitely become part of human food chain. Microplastics used in cosmetics are one of the target of ECHA restriction proposal. It focuses on Microplastics which are intentionally added to both leave-on and rinse-off products, in order to reduce their use, so their possible impact once release in the environment.
An overview of draft ECHA restriction proposal with EFfCI (The European Federation of Cosmetic Ingredients) comments will be the main topic of the presentation, to evaluate ban details and its economics and social aspects. Moreover, a preview of the next legislative process of next months, in order to evaluate the implementation time of the proposal given to European Commission.
- Federica Carlomagno R&D Manager - Roelmi HPC – per EFfCI Working Group Polymers
EFfCI – China – Current and future Regulatory Situation for Cosmetic Raw Materials
The presentation gives a short introduction into the actual regulatory environment and developments of cosmetic ingredients in China. It will be briefly explained, what is needed to sell a cosmetic ingredient in China, what are the hot regulatory topics for cosmetic ingredients, just discussed in China and who are the different industry and governmental bodies involved in regulatory affairs and different lobbying activities. Additionally it will give a short snapshot about the status of the new Chines Cosmetic legislation and what could be expected.
- Dr. Ernst Wagner Chair EFfCI WG International Relationship / Group lead Personal Care & Aroma Chemicals, Global Regulatory Affairs & Quality Management
GREEN PRESERVATION – A VALID ALTERNATIVE?
Why is the industry going green?
What are the formulation challenges of green preservation?
What strategies need implementing with green preservation?
What does nature offer?
Pros and cons of green preservation
- Mr Andrea Mitarotonda Consultant - Independent