Making Cosmetics Conference

The conference will take place in room ORANGE 1 

20 November 2019

21 November 2019

09:45 - 10:00


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The Regulation 1223/2009, designed as a consumer guarantee, establishes clear and precise rules to protect users regarding the use of ingredients, safety in the cosmetic manufacturing process and the ban on animal testing.

The Internet, globalization and the continuous evolution of consumer "needs" have shown flaws, revealing areas of shadow in which the application of the Cosmetics Regulation proves to be not very effective. As a consequence, the end user is exposed to multiple risks, first of all the one deriving from the numerous "traps" inherent in marketing.

The constant acceleration of the input multiplier deriving from the open window on the world, the 'mare magnum' of the network, requires targeted action. The aim is therefore to provide a starting point to reflect on the hidden dangers in the rapid evolution of the online cosmetic market, looking for quick and effective answers able to face the pitfalls that a constant development


10:00 - 10:25


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Over recent years the cosmetics sector has made extremely successful use of digital channels to reach out to consumers and display its innovative and dynamic nature. Today, the key to a brand’s success lies increasingly in having an in-depth understanding of the marketing channels and tools that digital technology provides, and managing all touch-points in an integrated approach. Developing synergistic multi-channel communication strategies makes it possible to deliver a comprehensive shopping experience, capable of engaging and retaining consumers.


10:30 - 10:55


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The analysis of surfactants in detergent products, both for domestic and personal care use, are often entrusted to a-specific and highly interfered techniques.
The possibility of operating with instrumental methods developed ad-hoc not only allows to verify / quantify the presence of these chemicals in the product, but also to characterise their nature, purity and eventual conformity to specific raw materials, as well as, in in some cases, to certify its absence.
These techniques appear to be absolutely effective even in the present and certainly future need to work analytically on innovative raw materials, such as bio-based and bio-surfactant, also coming from non-chemical production processes.


11:30 - 11:55

Sustainability and development: NEW FRONTIERS OF INNOVATION

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Green Beauty certainly represents the most relevant trend within the cosmetic sector. Now more than 50% of toiletries and over 65% of those in the skin care sector are claimed to be environmentally sustainable. It is declined in different ways by companies operating in the sector according to the brands and their market positioning. We pass from a naturalness expressed in percentages of ingredients of natural or organic origin to certified products adhering to strict development protocols, passing through "minimalist" products, that is to say containing the minimum possible ingredients to contain the environmental impact and recover the essentiality formulation. New concepts such as eco-compatibility and actual biodegradability are coming up, especially in relation to some sensitive categories such as solar products. The attention on the primary and secondary packaging of cosmetic products with the use of plastics from renewable sources or the increasing use of recycled plastics also appears to be of great importance, sometimes through co-extrusion techniques that avoid contact with the product. The research also concerns the adoption of compostable plastics obtained from natural sources (eg biofermentation) that maximize the biodegradability themes of the same packaging.


  • Marco Oliva R&D Director Bolton Manitoba e Manetti&Roberts - L.Manetti-H.Roberts &C per Azioni
12:00 - 12:30

Focus on in vitro alternative methods: new toxicological end-points for the safety evaluation

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The use of in vitro tests for the characterization of the toxicological profiles of substances and mixtures is a well-established but still evolving instrument. The evolution of scientific knowledge, of the cellular and molecular biological processes, the progression of technologies, together with the need to satisfy the regulatory and safety requirements of the cosmetic sector, give the input to the development of new methods for increasingly complex and specific endpoints. The scientific and technical literature of the sector has been enriched in the last period by new methods for the toxicological analysis of substances and mixtures. The evaluation of skin sensitization potential has long been a topic with few scientifically valid technical solutions: today a range of validated and suitable methods for classification purposes is available. Current techniques for the evaluation of eye irritation allow the classification according to the regulations in force but also a finer investigation in the "mild irritant" category, harder to analyse.

For the purposes of toxicological research, protocols using in vitro assay systems for the analysis of the potential for reproductive and developmental toxicity are now available, together with the protocols for the screening of the activities of possible endocrine disruptors, adaptable to different possible exposure patterns.

Furthermore, the in vitro investigations also embrace the environmental sector and let researchers to characterize the products not only in terms of safety for humans but also with regard to aquatic and terrestrial environments, being potentially susceptible to significant changes over time.

The in vitro experimental methods are therefore confirmed as an allied research tool in the cosmetic sector, able to offer investigative strategies integrated with adequate, sensitive and precise results.


12:00 - 12:30

Vegetable actives for sustainable cosmetics: CROP®, the biotech solution to guarantee quality / safety, standardization and availability

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In recent years respect and environmental sustainability are at the center of a new way of doing business, especially in the cosmetics sector.

The use of botanical ingredients is increasingly widespread in the cosmetic industry, where plant extracts carry that characteristic of "natural" that is increasingly gathering support among consumers. The presence of ingredients produced in safe and controlled conditions, combined with science and modern technology become fundamental prerequisites to obtain high quality, safe, and sustainable products.

Added to this growing demand for botanicals, the problems of availability and safety / quality of the products increase.

A definitive answer to the request of availability, security and standardization is the use of the technology of in vitro cultures. DemBiotech®, thanks to its deep know how, is owner of a proprietary Biotech Platform named CROP® that guarantees to overcome by process the limits of extraction by traditional cultivated plants, in term of quality, safety and standardization. The final product is free of contaminants such as pesticides, fertilizers, heavy metals and aflatoxins, since the culture is done in a safe and controlled environment (biofermentors).


14:00 - 14:25

Microplastics: Draft ECHA restriction proposal

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It is a daily topic of discussion the fact that Microplastics can have a negative impact on the environment and on people health. In fact, when they are disposed of, they can accumulate in the environment (most of all in the seas) being ingested by organisms which can definitely become part of human food chain. Microplastics used in cosmetics are one of the target of ECHA restriction proposal. It focuses on Microplastics which are intentionally added to both leave-on and rinse-off products, in order to reduce their use, so their possible impact once release in the environment.
An overview of draft ECHA restriction proposal with EFfCI (The European Federation of Cosmetic Ingredients) comments will be the main topic of the presentation, to evaluate ban details and its economics and social aspects. Moreover, a preview of the next legislative process of next months, in order to evaluate the implementation time of the proposal given to European Commission.


14:30 - 14:55

EFfCI – China – Current and future Regulatory Situation for Cosmetic Raw Materials

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The presentation gives a short introduction into the actual regulatory environment and developments of cosmetic ingredients in China. It will be briefly explained, what is needed to sell a cosmetic ingredient in China, what are the hot regulatory topics for cosmetic ingredients, just discussed in China and who are the different industry and governmental bodies involved in regulatory affairs and different lobbying activities. Additionally it will give a short snapshot about the status of the new Chines Cosmetic legislation and what could be expected.


  • Dr. Ernst Wagner Chair EFfCI WG International Relationship / Group lead Personal Care & Aroma Chemicals, Global Regulatory Affairs & Quality Management
15:00 - 15:25


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Why is the industry going green?

What are the formulation challenges of green preservation?

What strategies need implementing with green preservation?

What does nature offer?

Pros and cons of green preservation